One of my New Year’s nature resolutions was to kayak in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA). I’ve never been on the waters of the BWCA. Technically, I’ve was in the geographic location last summer when I hiked Eagle Mountain—the highest point in Minnesota. That “mountain” is just within the border of BWCA. Also, as a kid, my family went on many camping, fishing, and exploring trips in Northern Minnesota. I don’t remember the BWCA but cannot say for certain my father never took me there.
But paddling in a kayak? Last weekend was definitely a first. I never kayaked in my youth. It was the first time I’ve been on the waters of the BWCA to my knowledge.
What matters is this: I wanted to experience and remember kayaking on the Boundary Waters. Now, I will.
The Drive North
The day before my trip, I stayed with my son and his wife in Duluth. They were just under 2.5 hours from my destination: Fall Lake, entry point #24. I didn’t want to drive the whole trip in one day (from home it would have been about 5 hours), so I crashed at my kiddo’s.
The day of my trip, I got up at 5:30 and microwaved some day-old coffee. I left at 6:02 a.m. in a pleasant 55-degree temperature. The drive was lovely—blue sky, morning light casting shadows, wetlands, lakes, people out for some early fishing, a nice mist on the water… it was magical, and I enjoyed the solitude and scenery.
Around 8:30 I rolled into Ely, Minnesota. A gateway to the BWCA. I found my way to Fall Lake and parked my car. Stepping onto a dock at the boat launch, I looked at the water; subtle ripples on the surface shimmered in the morning light. The lake wasn’t crystal clear, but I could see the bottom. The water was the color of weak coffee. But unlike weak coffee, this place gave me a charge. I was ready to kayak the BWCA for the first time.
Entering the Boundary Waters
I met some young paddlers at the landing. They had just finished a week of canoeing and camping in the BWCA, and they were tired. Their report was that there were many critter sightings, a lot of fun, and a few storms, one of which lasted an entire night. Oof! I’ve camped in treacherous weather, and it isn’t easy!
I left the boat landing and paddled across the lake to the BWCA entry point. There was a sign in the woods that welcomed me. I had reached my destination.
Paddling, Turtles, and a Good Book
With my goal reached, I slowed down and paddled, drifted, paddled, drifted… it was marvelous. The sky was blue and the quiet soaked through me. I hadn’t realized how much I needed the calming and therapeutic effects of nature.
I basked in it.
Paddling along a shoreline, I began to notice how many rocks there were jutting up and out of the water. Not only that, many of the rocks served as resting places for turtles. I paddled close to a few, and, much to my delight, the turtles sat still and seemed relatively unbothered by my presence.
I think kayaks are the best water-craft for nature-watching. Critters seem much less bothered by me when I kayak. Even less than when I’ve been in a canoe. Go figure!
After I was satisfied with a lengthy session of turtle-watching, I decided to drift and read a book that had been loaned to me by a friend. The title of the book? The Root Beer Lady. It is a true story of Dorothy Molter, the last full-time non-indigenous resident of the BWCA. Reading her story while floating in the same waters she visited felt right. The first pages mentioned Fall Lake, where I was, and the mournful cry of loons, which I was listening to in real time. Amazing!
After some reading, I paddled on and, eventually, came to a small bay. I drifted again and enjoyed the damselflies. They had been my constant companions on the water and were landing on my craft, my paddle, my arms, my book … they were unafraid like the turtles.
Heading for Shore
After three peaceful hours on the water, some clouds started rolling in and the wind picked up. The paddle back was a bit tough, but not too daunting. I’ve experienced much worse. I returned to the boat landing with tired arms and a light heart. I found a new favorite spot in Minnesota.
I’ll be back to the Boundary Waters. Maybe next time I’ll bring a friend and a tent, canoes, gear, more time… This first solo day trip was the perfect way to whet my appetite for spending time in the BWCA.
Until we meet again, Boundary Waters…
Final Thoughts
If you’ve never paddled through the BWCA, I highly recommend it, even for a day (or just three hours). Go with friends. Go alone. Go slow. Enjoy the beauty of creation and all things living. And by all means, don’t forget to take time to make friends with turtles and damselflies.
This was one nature resolution that didn’t disappoint.
